So, you bought an aftermarket exhaust kit and want to install it yourself. Well, you can do it. BUT, you need to make sure you have the tools, time and know-how to get the job done correctly and safely. Here’s a basic outline on what you’ll need and what it will take.
First and foremost, you need to make sure you don’t kill yourself or someone else doing this. You’re going to need a garage or driveway with enough room on both sides to work. It doesn’t all happen under the truck.
Round up a quality floor jack, heavy duty jack stands (designed for a truck, not your wife’s Camry), safety glasses, gloves, a Sawzall or hacksaw, WD40 or your favorite lubricant, a good socket set, a dead blow hammer or mallet and a pry bar or two. If you don’t have all of these things, you should consider the cost of buying this equipment vs. having a professional do the installation for you. And, “Yes”, we do install parts you bought online or elsewhere.
You’ll need a double garage or driveway because you’ll have your legs sticking out from under the truck as well as needing to assemble the new exhaust somewhere. So go ahead and double-check your new part now. Make SURE if fits your truck.
Many systems are multi-fit, meaning on a truck, the same part number might fit an 8’ long bed as well as a 5.5’. You just have to cut a pipe to fit the shorter bed
You don’t want to get your old one off and find out the new one isn’t the right fit. Unless your truck is brand new, you’ll likely end up having to cut off some of your factory exhaust so it won’t end up just bolting back on. And you don’t want to run without an exhaust or have your truck disabled while some internet company figures out what the right system for your truck should have been.
Let’s Get Started
Read the directions start to finish. Our techs read them every time. Why? Trucks change and parts change. Even if you’ve done this 100 times, there is a good chance it won’t be identical to the last time. And one of the worst things that can happen if you jump ahead or miss a step and have to try to undo some previous work. For many installs, this can be nearly impossible, so READ THEM.
Remove the old exhaust. Easy, right? Well, maybe. First, make sure your factory system is cool to the touch. Next, spray some WD40 on the rubber isolators that hold your factory system in, as well as where your exhaust meets the catalytic converter. Spray it from both sides really well to make sure it penetrates and helps your factory system come off more easily.
Unbolt it from the back of the catalytic converter. It’s incredibly unlikely that you can get your exhaust off in one piece unless you have a complete side-post lift at home, which is doubtful. So in that case, it’s time to start cutting.
A hacksaw is fine if you don’t have a Sawzall, assuming there is room for it. You may have to use it upside down since on many trucks there isn’t room between the exhaust and the frame rails for a hacksaw to fit. You could use it upside down but then the handle won’t be conformed to your grip. Awkward! Best to use a Sawzall or call someone like Chux Trux who has garages and technicians with all the right tools.
It’s easiest to cut just before or after an exhaust hanger bracket to make it easier to pull it out of the rubber isolator. Unhook the system from the clamps or stock brackets/hangers. These will vary depending on your make and model of vehicle, but most modern trucks are all very similar using a hanger rod that goes through a rubber isolator. They won’t just fall out. You may need to use a pry bar to coax it out of there. Do this section by section to make it easier. Most technicians agree it's easiest to disassemble from the rear and reinstall the new kit starting at the front (reverse order).
Assemble Your New Cat-back Exhaust Kit
Assemble this in sections, NOT all at once. Even if you have a garage with a lift, it’s too hard to twist this in over the axle. When assembling this, do it loosely. Keeping it loose makes it easier to move the next section around while getting it into place. You’ll go back and tighten things up later.
Work into place in sections, starting at the front of the truck (catalytic converter end). Every truck and every brand of exhaust will vary. Some have a Y-pipe, some of an "H" or "X" pipe in the front end, etc. Again, they all vary and this post is just a general guide.
Follow directions and reattach using the factory hangers (rubber isolators) until you get to the section behind the muffler(s). This is where some guys screw this up. As we said before, many manufacturers make 1 kit (part number) for a truck. Many times they are including everything in the box for a crew cab truck with an 8’ bed and saying this also fits a regular cab truck with a 6’ bed. You do to the math. If you put this kit on right out of the box (not that it would fit), it’s going to be about 3-4’ too long. Many times you have to either choose the correct tail section (behind the muffler) to install or, cut down the 1 long section they included.
Once you get through this step, go back to the front and tighten everything up and check for leaks. While moving things around, you almost certainly made something more loose from all of the movement. After you’ve driven 500-1,000 miles (usually about 2-4 weeks), go back and recheck all the bolts. Heat and all the motion from driving can loosen clamps.
Pay attention, take your time and you’ll probably be just fine. Again, if this isn’t in your skill set, give one of our three Kansas City stores a call and we’ll get it installed for you.
Convert a 2wd to 4wd
So you want to convert your 2wd into a 4wd truck and you’re curious as to how much that’ll cost, what parts you’ll need and how much time it’ll take. And do we do that here at Chux.
We thought about it, looked at a conversion from all angles and thoughtfully decided…
No way in Hell.
And we mean that in the most respectful way possible.
The thing is, whether you’ve got a Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Toyota or any other kind of truck, there’s a reason the manufacturer made a 2wd version and a 4wd version. They are different. They have different parts. They don’t all fit together. They will never all fit together even if you’re a super awesome fabricator/mechanic/welder/magician.
You’ll have to swap and fit a big list of parts and alter a lot of others to make it all work.
Yes it’s possible. No we don’t recommend it.
What kind of list are we looking at here? Here is just the beginning:
Front drive shaft
Shorter rear drive shaft
And that’s just the beginning.
Not to mention where the heck are you going to find all of these parts for your specific truck. A junk yard? Yeah, let us know how that works out for you in a few years when these old, already worn-out parts start failing you. You’re already looking at thousands of dollars, where are you gonna get the cash to make those repairs? It’ll also never, ever be worth what you put into it whether you use new or used parts.
Where else might you spend that cash and get a good, reliable 4wd truck? Trade your 2wd in for a 4wd. Or buy an older 4wd to play around in.
Say you’ve got a 2000 Silverado 2wd. Trade it in for the same year, mileage, condition as you have, but upgrade to the 4wd and you’ll shell out maybe a few thousand bucks on top of the trade. But you’ll still be cash ahead compared to converting your 2wd to a 4wd.
The (slight) exception to this is on older vehicles with leaf springs at all 4 corners. It’s quite a bit easier to do on a truck like this, but it’s not any cheaper. Trying this on modern trucks with independent front suspensions is a challenge that should be best left to guys who want to take your money (but may not be willing to tell you that it’s (financially) probably not a good idea.
Even if you do decide to go ahead, remember when you sell your truck that the title to the truck is still going to be for a 2-wheel drive. Try to convince you State Licensing Bureau that this is really a 4wd. Good luck with that. Even if you drive it up there to them, they won’t care. They’ll say something like, “The OEM said it’s a 2wd, they submitted papers saying it is, and that’s that”. At least, that’s what we think they’ll say. But maybe you’re great at convincing bureaucrats that they’re wrong.
If you’re still stuck on converting your 2wd to a 4wd, we truly wish you luck and would love to have some before and after photos, along with your story or video of it. Might be worth a $5 T-shirt for you. We just can’t go through with charging the amount of labor required for a science experiment destined to fail.
Did you know that Chux Trux sells computer programmers? No, not the geeky guys (sorry) who sit at a computer screen 22 hours a day typing ones and zeros. We’re talking about little electronic boxes that do all sorts of wonderful things to your car or truck. Some of you younger guys reading this may have never heard of what I’m about to tell you but all you graybeards out there in internet reader land will know exactly what I’m talking about. Remember cleaning and gapping sparkplugs? Remember changing carburetor jets and setting mixture and idle speed with a screwdriver? Remember setting the point gap and using a timing light? Remember black & white TV? Just like the Betamax, cassette tapes, and floppy discs, the automotive timing light has been relegated to the Museum of Technical Stuff We Just Don’t Use Anymore.
Since the late 1980’s almost all cars and trucks are computer controlled. There’s no need to perform any of those tasks I mentioned above because the vehicle’s computer takes care of all of that, and more. And it usually does it better, much better, than those old mechanical systems. The computer is constantly monitoring dozens of parameters and making whatever miniscule adjustments are necessary to keep everything operating at peak efficiency. There is, however, one minor drawback to all this efficient technology. We can’t mess around with it. Or at least we couldn’t at first.
In the “good old days”, if you wanted a little more power, say, at the drag strip, you could bump the timing a bit, put in some hotter spark plugs, change the jets in the carb, and go race. At the end of the day you could put everything back the way it was for the drive home. The computers in modern cars prevented that. Enter the aftermarket computer programmer (or computer tuner if you want to be technical).
In some of our other articles we talked about how every car or truck built today is a compromise. The average new car buyer doesn’t necessarily want the highest performance, power for towing, or tuning for fuel economy. He or she also may not always maintain their car as well as they should. The computer program in the car is written to take that into account. There’s usually a lot more potential for power, torque, and fuel economy in any modern engine but the program in the computer is a compromise to suit the average.
The good news is that your car or trucks computer can be reprogrammed very easily by using an aftermarket computer tuner, also called a computer programmer. With one of these relatively inexpensive devices plugged into your vehicle’s diagnostic port you can literally change your cars entire personality in less than 20 minutes with no tools. You can change the timing curve for increased horsepower and torque, remove the factory programmed rpm governor raising the top speed limiter, adjust shift points in your automatic transmission, adjust engine efficiency for better mileage when towing, quicker passing, and so much more. If you install larger tires and wheels, or change rear end gears, that will affect your speedometer readings. A programmer will re-calibrate your speedometer and get you back on spec which is crucial to you lift kit guys that installed larger tires.
Many forms of computer tuners or computer programmers on the market contain multiple pre-determined programs; one for performance, one for towing, one for better mileage. Some have up to 5 different settings depending on your needs. You simply plug the device into your vehicle’s OBDII diagnostic port under the dash and it will prompt you to answer a couple of question about your vehicle. Then it will download your vehicle’s stock program for safe keeping and upload the custom program you selected. You can change programs back at any time by reversing the process. You can go from a performance tune to an economy tune and back to the stock tune whenever you need to. It’s really that simple. If you can plug a lamp into an electrical outlet and answer “Y” or “N” to some questions about what you want the computer to do, you can handle this.
Another type of device you can use to change your vehicle’s performance is a module. These are usually just plug in modules that go into the ECU (electronic control unit) and give you the ability to change certain parameters on-the-fly from a controller mounted inside via a keypad or touch screen device.
Both computer programmers (computer tuners) and modules are usually internet updateable. Whenever the manufacturer of your programmer has new information or new programs, they can be installed easily from your lap top.
Superchips is one of largest maker of programmers, both for gas performance and diesel performance. They have been in business for over 26 years and have programmers and modules for just about every make and model of car and truck that uses electronic engine management. Superchips programmers are available with a variety of customizable settings for dramatic power gains and improved driveability.
Another great brand for you to look at if you thinking of a programmer is Edge Products. Especially for you diesel truck performance guys, Edge has the devices that will significantly improve towing performance, get you better fuel mileage, and give you many ways to monitor vital systems like exhaust gas temperatures, turbo performance, and more.
All of the great products from Superchips and Edge Products are available at any of the three Chux Trux stores in the Kansas City area. All you have to do is stop buy any one of them or give us a call or drop us an email. The experts there will give you all the information on the various types and prices of programmers so that you can make the right choice for your car or truck.
By: Chris Ripper
The best way to describe what a mass air flow sensor is and what it does is to compare it to the ticket taker at the race track. Okay, that may be a little bit of stretch, but think about it. He’s the first guy that knows how many people have come to see the race. The mass airflow sensor, or MAF sensor, is the first device that knows how much air your engine is pulling in. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes, depending on the vehicle manufacturer.
The MAF sensor contains a sensing element that is either a “hot wire” or a “vane meter” to measure the volume of air entering your engine. It then relays that information, in the form of voltage, to your vehicle’s ECU (electronic control unit, or “brain”) and the computer then compares what’s coming in to the engine to what the O2 sensor is telling it is going out the exhaust. The ECU then uses that information, and the information from a few other sensors, to make precise adjustments to the fuel delivery and ignition timing to insure that your engine is running at peak efficiency.
Now, let’s say you want to improve the performance of your vehicle. The first thing you might do is install a cold air intake. Good idea. The problem is that now you’re delivering more air volume to that restrictive factory air flow sensor. Bad idea. It’s not going to hurt anything to install a cold air intake without changing the MAF sensor. However, the stock air sensor is actually a restrictive point in the combustion process. The stock MAF sensor isn’t calibrated for the higher volume of air that a cold air intake can send to the engine. It will limit the full potential of what your cold air intake can do for you. Fortunately the solution is easy; you also need to install an upgraded mass air sensor. These are ideal (but usually overlooked) improvements car and truck enthusiasts can, and should make! They are the perfect addition to computer tuners and upgrades, free flow cat-back exhaust systems, throttle body spacers and other airflow related performance improvements.
Performance MAF sensors are available for just about any fuel injected vehicle on the market and they are easy to install. Even if you don’t know a frammas valve from a muffler link you should be able to change out your MAF sensor in about ten minutes with just a few basic hand tools that you probably already have laying around under all that stuff on your workbench, typically just one screwdriver or socket!
So okay, what will installing this new mass air flow sensor do for you? How about improved performance, more torque, crisper throttle response, and better fuel mileage? The 2010 F-150 with 5.4L V-8 that we have here at Chux Trux showed an increase of 2 mpg overall and a whopping 4 mpg on the highway after installing a performance MAF sensor. (Your mileage may vary, as they say)
The “Power-Flo” mass air sensor made by Jet Performance Products and sold by Chux Trux, for example, has been tested on a specially designed flow bench to deliver up to 45% better air flow than a stock sensor. This increase comes from more accurate readings of intake air flow and a smoother design that minimizes restrictions. A new “Power-Flo” mass air sensor is also compatible with any other modifications you may want to make to your engine. Things such as the cold air intake we talked about already, and also computer upgrades, throttle body spacers, and free flow performance exhaust systems. You will get much better results from any or all of these modifications with the addition of an upgraded MAF sensor.
Now you know what a mass air flow sensor is and what an upgraded one can do for your vehicle’s performance, what’s next? You can call or email Chux Trux anytime to get more information about MAF sensors, including pricing and which one would be the best fit for your vehicle. Or you can stop by any of the three Chux Trux stores in the Kansas City area, talk to one of our experts and see for yourself what a new MAF sensor can do for your car or truck.
All you have to do is check out any of the literally hundreds of internet forums and car enthusiast message boards and you will get screens full of opinions on the subject. Oiled filters are the only way to go. Oiled filters will damage your engine’s MAF sensor. Dry filters are the only way to go. Dry filters let tons of dirt get through to damage your engine’s pistons and rings. The debate seems to never end and the proponents of each side are positive they are right. Sort of reminds me of the U.S. Congress!
And, as it usually is in these situations, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. The fact is that both types of filter will help improve fuel mileage and performance. They just each go about in a slightly different way.
Most dry, or non-oiled, filter elements are made of several layers of paper, although some on the market do use a cotton gauze fabric. These filters generally will trap dirt particles down to less than ten microns in size. (What is a micron? Without getting all scientific on you, just know that it’s tiny, very, very tiny.) They do this with multiple layers and in some cases they will be slightly more restrictive than an oiled filter but still much better than your OEM filter. Both types of filters may be cleaned once they have become clogged.
By contrast a wet, or oiled, air filter is made up of a few layers of cotton gauze coated with a slight amount of, you guessed it, oil. No, it’s not your favorite brand of 10W-30 but specially formulated air filter oil designed for the job. Because the oil acts like a sticky dirt trap, the openings in the filter material can be slightly larger than those in a paper filter and this makes this type of filter slightly less restrictive. A less restrictive air filter will flow more air thus most manufacturers of oiled filters claim you will get more power and better throttle response. (Some of those claims are “best case scenario” depending on the year/make/model/engine of your vehicle, however so beware.) When an oiled air filter gets dirty it can be cleaned, re-oiled, and put right back in service, which is why most manufacturers call them lifetime air filters.
So which is better? Well, we started this by asking Pepsi or Coke, etc., etc. so which is your preference? Both types of filters are good and will do a good job of keeping the crud out of your engine they just go about it differently. One good rule of thumb is if you have installed a performance cold air intake on your ride, you should go with whatever type of filter came with your intake. If you already have an oiled filter in there, you should clean it and re-oil it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If your cold air package came with a dry element filter then you should replace it with the same when it gets dirty. And again, just check with your system’s manufacturer to know when that replacement interval is.
If you need any more information on this subject or you’re ready to buy your next cold air intake or you just need a replacement filter give our guys at Chux Trux a call. We are the experts and can help you make the right choice for your vehicle and driving conditions. Check us out on the web at http://chuxtrux.com/ or send us an email to find out more.
If you live in the Kansas City area you are in luck because you can stop in at any of our three Chux Trux stores and see the different types of filters we carry and get face-to-face advice on just what you need.
So whether you like Coke or Pepsi, Kleenex or Puffs, dry filters or oiled, the choice is really up to you!
By: Chris Ripper
Years ago, we made a decision to stop selling and/or installing HID lighting. We did this for several reasons. First and foremost, it’s dangerous. HID lighting installed in a stock headlight reflector is too bright and blinding to oncoming traffic. Unfortunately, there are plenty of people willing to ignore this fact and continue to install them. Tragically, it will take somebody getting seriously injured or worse for people to stop and even then, they might not. The Federal Government has gotten involved and will now issue heavy fines to HID importers. Recently an entire cargo ship from China full of HID lighting was confiscated. When there is an accident, the government will make an example out of somebody. The right thing to do was to stop selling and installing them so that’s what we did.
Now we have another “issue” in front of us, which is deleting the dpf filter (diesel particulate filter) when selling exhaust systems. Running with a DPF delete system on the road is illegal. It’s that simple. If you read the literature that comes with the pipe it will clearly states “for off road use only”. Without the DPF, the truck will not pass an emissions test. Once again, the Federal Government is involved. In this case, the EPA. The EPA will soon begin to issue heavy fines to people who remove their DPF. Many manufacturers have already stopped production. Contrary to what people think, simply saying for off road use only will not keep them safe from prosecution. The EPA is not stupid. Once again I have to make a decision based on my core values, one of which is “do the right thing”.
In the last few years, removing the Diesel Particulate Filter from diesel trucks has become somewhat popular. Enthusiasts have figured out that without the DPF, trucks will gain horsepower and get better mileage when combined with a custom tuner.
Recently the Federal Government has initiated steep fines for anybody that manufacturers, imports, sells or installs DPF delete pipes including the end user. Even without the fine, there are several reasons that eliminating the DPF does not make sense.
- If you need to take your truck in for service and there is no DPF on the truck, the dealer may refuse service.
- If your state has an inspection system in place, either safety or emissions, your truck likely will not pass.
- Removing the DPF can cause problems with the EGR system. Removing the EGR system can cause engine damage from excessive Exhaust Gas Temperature.
- Removing the DPF will increase emissions even if you are running Bio Fuel.
- Removing the DPF significantly reduces trade in value. Dealers are now aware to check for DPF when assessing trade-ins. A new DPF can cost a dealer $3000-$4000. If you do not have one to put back on they will deduct that from the trade value.
There are many ways to gain horsepower and mileage with diesel engines such as exhaust, computer programmers, air intakes, water injection and many other performance parts . Our goal is to help you find the most efficient and cost effective method of increasing horsepower, torque and fuel mileage without causing the problems listed above.
Here at Chux Trux, we aren’t your “we'll do anything for a buck” type of company. One of our core values is, “Do the right thing”. So effective immediately, Chux will no longer sell or install DPF delete pipes. Our staff will be glad to offer you exhaust systems that retain the DPF, as well as alternatives to gain horsepower and mileage.
We realize that some of you may not like this, and yes, we may lose a few sales over it. We’re ok with that. We’ve always prided ourselves on taking the high road these last 21 years and will continue to do so.
Thanks for your support and understanding our values.
By: Chris Ripper
The term “cat-back exhaust” has nothing whatsoever to do with what you may find in little Fluffy’s litter box. No, a cat-back exhaust system is really an aftermarket exhaust system that replaces everything from your vehicle’s catalytic converter all the way back to its exit at the rear. A system like this usually includes a muffler and, in some cases, a resonator for better sound quality and in many cases includes exhaust tips. But you still retain the factory installed head pipe and catalytic convertor, or “cat”.
Of course the main reason for replacing the factory exhaust in the first place is due to several factors that inhibit its performance. The bends are very restrictive “crush bends” instead of smoother mandrel bends, the material used is cheap, the system is designed more for quick and easy installation at the factory, and quiet operation over performance.
So if performance and sound are the main reasons for installing an aftermarket exhaust system, why not go all the way and replace everything from the engine back? Why only from the cat back? Well, in many states and localities it’s simply illegal to tamper with or remove the catalytic converter. So if you live in one of those places you really have no choice. (Missouri and Kansas are two states where it’s illegal so Chux won’t remove them). But even if you don’t and it is legal for you to remove the cat in your state, there are reasons not to do so. Unless you also plan on reprogramming your vehicle’s computer, it needs to have that backpressure of the cat to maintain the proper engine tune. In most cases, retaining the factory cat is not necessarily a bad thing.
Okay, so now you know you want to buy and install a cat back system, now what? There are about a bazillion different styles out there in the market place. Which do you choose?
Some of the factors that drive your decision are based on what’s under your ride now. Do you have dual exhausts with twin cats or just a single cat? If you have a single cat, do you want the dual exhaust look? Do you want a significant performance improvement, a richer, throatier sound, or both?
The first type of cat back exhaust is a single pipe, single exit system. This basically replaces all of your factory exhaust from behind the catalytic converter to the rear of the vehicle with a single pipe, muffler, tail pipe and usually includes a tip. You do have the option with this type of system for a rear exit or a side exit behind the rear tire. In other words the exhaust is routed all the way out the back of the vehicle, or it turns and exits to the side either just in front of or behind the rear tire. Systems of this type usually go to oversized pipe that is larger in diameter than your factory system, letting it “breathe” easier. There is some difference in performance between these types and the choice is strictly a cosmetic one. If your vehicle already has dual exhausts with twin cats from the factory you can get cat back systems for these too. And again you have the same choice of rear or side exit.
But what if you have a single exhaust but want the look of duals. You can get that too. A single-to-dual cat back system will include a muffler that has a single inlet and two outlets. Then two tailpipes are routed to the back of the vehicle. And again they can be either rear or side exit. The twin exhaust tips protruding out from underneath really add no-nonsense performance look to any vehicle.
All of the major aftermarket exhaust suppliers have cat back systems in their catalogs and they cover all popular vehicles. Brands such as Magnaflow, Flowmaster, Borla, Corsa, and Gibson have systems that fit everything from diesel trucks to sport compacts, Corvettes to muscle cars and systems that fit every budget.
If you live in the Kansas City area, Chux Trux is your headquarters for aftermarket cat back exhaust systems. The guys who you’ll meet there are experts and they carry all of the top brands listed above. They can help you find just exactly what you need no matter what you drive. Give them a call today or check them out on the web and get started on giving your ride more performance, better sound, and the hot look that you can only get from a quality cat back system from Chux.
The crew at Chux Trux loves technology: iPods, iPads, GPS, VHS, 8-track. (So we're old. Shut up.) But more than anything, we love the technology found in modern engines and air filters.
That's why we're always dismayed when we see a gleaming truck rolling in with all those factory parts under the hood. The fact is, most drivers don't really know what's going on under there, so car & truck manufacturers don't bother to go the extra mile. Most of the time manufacturers put in the cheapest air filters they can because that's all the average buyer needs.
But you're not average, are you? After all, you're a Chux Trux customer and you know that installing a good air intake is one of the best things you can add to your truck that delivers better gas mileage, more performance and is a “green product” since you don’t throw it away every 10,000 miles.
What's that? You don't know what an air intake does? Well, don't worry, we'll teach you.
Air + Fuel + Combustion = Motion
Your car or truck's engine needs three things to run properly: fuel, spark plugs, and lots of fresh, clean air. All engines come with an air filter designed to let clean air into the engine. Unfortunately, most stock air filters are just good enough to do the job but not good enough to do much else.
A better air filter (replacement air filters) lets your engine breathe easier and take in more clean air, allowing for better engine performance. It also allows the air to go into the engine more smoothly, giving you increased horsepower and torque, while at the same time decreasing how much fuel the engine uses. But an air intake system is like an air filter on steroids, without all those harmful side effects. It doesn't matter if you have a gas engine or diesel, they both benefit from more horsepower, torque and mileage. Here's what a new cold air filter does:
- Increase Air Volume & Better Gas Mileage: A larger filter takes in more air. Instead of sucking air from a tiny tube feeding your airbox, an intake changes the filter to a much larger filter that breathes air from 360 degrees instead of that straw that the OEM’s build into your ride. With more air, your engine operates more efficiently because it won't need to overcompensate by adding more fuel for combustion. More efficiency = less fuel! Anything that saves gas will eventually pay for itself (BONUS).
- Decreased Particles: Ever replace your air filter and notice how dirty it gets? Standard air filters are good at removing air particles, but upgraded filters are better. The fewer particles that get into you engine, the better your engine runs and the longer it could last.
- Decreased Engine Air Temperature: Standard air filters tend to be shorter, taking in air from near the engine. This makes the air warmer, and warmer air has a lower oxygen density than colder air. An upgraded air intake brings in colder air, allowing for better oxygen concentration and increased performance.
Increased Engine Noise: Many people who install a new air filter for their car or truck notice that their engine sounds a little more....aggressive. This is natural. There is more, clean air going into your engine. That louder noise just means your engine is happier.
In short, installing an upgraded air filter may be the single, easiest way to give yourself a better engine without having to seriously mess around with the parts.
AiRaid and K&N Filter Specialists
At Chux Trux, we have a wide range of filters to choose from, such as AiRaid and K&N Filters.
Though any upgrade to your air filtration system is a good idea, our Crew at Chux knows a lot about AiRaid filters and which of their filters works best with your vehicle. Whether it's an exact fit bolt in system like the Airaid M.I.T. kit that gives you top under-hood air filter performance, or a U-Build-It filter that you cut to your needs, the Chux crew knows exactly what your car or truck needs and what options will fit into your budget.
Stop by Chux Trux today so we can talk about giving your engine a new lease on life with a new cold-air filtration system.